Picture: Martin Minarik
Since Friday, Apr 15th, Expedition Annapurna 2009 is ongoing only in a
couple Martin and Elisabeth; Dodo is leaving Nepal this week. They are
approaching Roc Noir from Machapuchare BC, ascending east side of the ridge.
*Apr 14th* - Five days on route, three days of complicated climbing. Roc
Noir and 7km Annapurna's ridge in sight. Sufficient gas and food. No wind not
even on the ridge. We are on the big plateau over Singu Chuli. Eli showed
great climbing skills and lot of courage.
*Apr 15th* - The altimeter shows 6700m. It's nice hot weather. In the
afternoon occasionally wind gusts.
*Apr 16th* - We're staying in miserable weather about 200m below the
Annapurnas ridge. We will decide according to the wind which way we'll
choose. Whether to the west ridge to Annapurna or to the east across big ice
barrier to Manang. The descent will not be the same way. We are OK and have
beautiful views to the south wall and Machapuchare. Idiot wind!
Earlier: Martin, Dodo and Elizabeth are back in the BC.
They have reached the beginning of the polish route in 5500m. That was the
last attemp to climb the Roc Noir route. The next attempt will lead under the
Chris Bonningtonīs pillar. As Martin has texted: "Annapurna is confirming its
strong reputation. After two weeks we didnīt get any higher than 5500m, we
were burried under the avalanche, we were falling into crevasses. But still,
we have a fancy for climb it."
Earlier: After half a year Martin Minarik is going back
to Annapurna with Slovak Dodo Kopold. In Kathmandu, they joined an experienced
French alpinist Elizabeth Revol. Last week they built base camp below the
south face. Yesterday they returned from three-day-trip up BC, now resting.
Petr Masek (Miska), Martin's climbing partner from many previous expeditions,
is coming soon with Czech group led by Libor Uher (shared permit).
Dodo Kopold and myself are looking for partners to share the cost of climbing
permit / base camp for Annapurna 1 - from south side. We plan to leave on
March 12. Money is issue this year. More climbers - lower cost. If interested
Martin from the past
Everest/Cho Oyu 2005: Martin Minarik: The first 8000
meter summit of the season, and it was a REAL SOLO: The report!
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