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 Carlos Pauner : MANASLU resting at Base camp | ||||||||
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PAUNER AND TEAMMATES REST AT BASE CAMP Carlos Pauner, Javier Pérez, Unai Llantada and Xavi Arias have reached base camp at 07:00 (Spain time) after spending the night in camp II at 6,400 m. The time it took to climb down was around four and a half hours; they found a nice descent because the there is less snow on the mountain due to good weather. Now they want to rest, eat well and hydrate and wait for that coveted window of nice weather to finish this battle. Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera CAMP II INSTALLED Published 09-25-2010 The expedition directed by Carlos Pauner has called at 13:35 (Spain time) to inform that they reached camp II located at 6,400 meters of altitude. The climb was very hard because they had no physical activity for several days at base camp. It took them around 8 hours, so now they are very tired. “We are very tired, but happy; now we have to eat, hydrate and rest” said Pauner. They will spend the night at II tonight and they will climb down to base camp tomorrow morning. With that they will conclude their acclimatization, so the next ascent on the mountain will be for a summit attack if the weather permits. Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera SECOND ATTEMPT TO INSTALL CAMP II TOMORROW Zaragoza, September 24, 2010. After several days at base camp waiting for the strong rain and snowfalls to stop, Carlos Pauner, Javier Pérez, Xavi Arias and Unai Llantada are leaving tomorrow, first thing in the morning, directly toward camp II, located at 6,400 m. Several days ago, they installed camp I at 5,800 m and they went back to base, reaching their first objective. The day before yesterday, they climbed up again to spend the night in the installed camp and they planed to continue on the next morning to II. A strong snowfall during the night cut their plans and made them turn back to base camp. After that attempt, they are ready to go tomorrow morning to spend the night at II, which is twelve hours away and almost 1700 meters of altitude difference. If the weather permits they will reach their objective tomorrow, which is to spend the night at camp II and go back to base; with that ascent they will conclude their acclimatization. That is why the next movement will by the direct summit attack. In this occasion, they don’t have Juanito Oiarzabal as member of the expedition, because of the time it takes to climb Manaslu and his professional appointments in Spain, so he has been forced to go back home. “We have high spirits and good physical shape, we only wait for Manaslu to give us a truce to reach this coveted summit” concludes Carlos Pauner. Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
BACK TO BASE CAMP, NO CAMP II
IN THE TRENCHES
FEELINGS FROM MANASLU: Carlos Pauner FIRST ROUND: Carlos Pauner The weather is bad, monsoonic. It rains, sometimes cats and dogs, sometimes a little less. We woke up wanting to go up to camp 1 and install it, but the rain sent us back to our sleeping bags. Two hours later it was clear and we decided to go up. We climbed over a stony terrain that leads to a glacier with deep crevasses although very open and clear. Little by little the weather is getting worse, as usual and fog start to fall down on us. A few hours later we got through that fog to this pinnacle at 5,700 m of altitude, where we install our first camp. We go down quickly, under clouds and rain and we finally reach the tranquility of our base camp. We have made an important step in this uncertain weather. The forecasts point to a mixed weather for at least 4 days. Now is time to rest, to recover our bodies and to continue acclimatizing. We have reached the initial mark of our route and our next thought is to install camp two above 6,500 m. A lot of work, but for the moment we have been able to take advantage a little pause in this foggy weather and advance on the first so important step. We will go back to our monotonous life in this little canvas city, with our comfort and our miseries. Moisture dampens us down to our bones and everything is wet. We hope for the monsoon to pass and that we can soon continue with our progress on our way to the summit. Carlos Pauner Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera CAMP I INSTALLED Today Carlos Pauner said by phone that they have installed camp I at 5,700 m. They left base camp at 09:00h and after four and a half hours of walking they installed they first stop on their ascent. They found a stony terrain until half the way and then snow. After they finished their mission of mounting that camp they arrived to base around 16:30h. Now they will face several days of bad weather which they will use to hydrate and rest because their bodies are noting the high altitude and the start of the work on the mountain. We will get graphic material of the climb this morning and more detailed information, because they are tired after the hard journey they had today. Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
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