Dear friends and followers, Namaste from Nepal. This is Turkish climber Tunc
Findik's Shishapangma report.
Me and my partner Dawa Sherpa tried to summit Shishapangma by the northeast
ridge in 1st October 2010, but due to dangerous & insecure snow conditions, we
had to abort as high as 7900 metres, ie. around 100 m short of the central
summit. The weather on our summit day was very good with great views of Cho
Oyu, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu, with no wind almost, a 'windstopper glove'
day really. Climbing was not technical, but exposed at bits, with a short
section of ropes for maybe 70 metres. The rest was a snow- ridge climbing of
Beforehand, we just spent 1 night in camp 1 (6400 m) and rested down in ABC
(5600 m). On the summit attempt which luckily coincided with a period of good
weather that held for a few days, we went up to camp 1 (6400 m) and then a
high camp 2 (around 7150 m) which was mostly in knee deep snow cover. Then,
early on 1st October, we went for the summit, starting 6 am. Before us was a
French team of 3 members and 3 Sherpas which started from camp 3 , and they
too had to return from 7900 m due to avalanche danger, as high as the
prominent black tower on the ridge.
I am convinced we did our best, but the mountains are not always as kind as
most times to people. In the extraordinary conditions that reigned the
Himalaya this autumn season, Shishapangma was quite difficult to climb for
small teams like us- high wind, deep snow, hidden crevasses and long distances
from the ABC up. It has been a difficult expedition with difficulties and
snags right from the beginning. There being very little number of people with
no coordination did not help- as less as 5 expeditions total , many of them 2
or 3 man teams.
Our sympathies and condolescences for the climbers who lost their lives in
Dhaulagiri and Cho Oyu. We are sorry for the people whom we share the same
ideal and dreams.
Great thanks to my sponsors and followers and soon to continue the quest for
Best wishes from Katmandu.
Earlier: Tunc Called me from satellite. And latest news as below
about Shishapangma expedition;
Two days ago they arrived to 7900m. but they went back to 7200m. because of
avalanche. And then today they are at BC now. And they will be Kathmandu in
one week. There are too much snow at the Shishapangma. No summit at this
Tunc reports in at ABC and on the move up,
Shishapangma from Base Camp
Dispatch Two: Dear Everestnews readers
My best to you from Tibet, town of Nyalam, at an altitude of 3700 metres.
The Shishapangma 2010 expedition is under way and going well!
As you well know, the monsoon rains keep slamming Nepalese lowlands still,
causing floods and landslides. Under these conditions, reaching the Chinese
border was quite an adventure, due to many landslides that destroyed the
road on the way from Katmandu to Kodari border town. We had a long and very
tiring journey of 12 hours, bypassing each and every landslide by walking
past it and changing vehicles, on the main motorway that connects Nepal to
China. It took a while for our gear to arrive Kodari, and we could only get
organized to cross the border yesterday, by 8th September.
After passing over to China, things went like breeze for sure. I had not
seen Tibet and the 'Friendship Highway' since my ascent of Mt. Everest in
2007 and i can say the road is excellently paved. We reached the town of
Nyalam from Zhangmu in 1 hour flat! And it seems Nyalam is a much cleaner
and cared for place nowadays, not being the dusty place it used to be in the
past.. Well, after a good nights sleep in good old Nyalam, this morning we
walked up a 4300 m peak with excellent views of Jugal Himal range with Dawa
Sherpa and my two Latvian friends, Olegs and Valdis.
Tomorrow we will be reaching the Chinese Base Camp of Shishapangma (4800 m)
after passing the high Lalung- La pass (5200 m) and after some more
acclimatizing to altitude, will trek up the 36 km distance to Shisha's
Advaced Base Camp by the Yebokangal Glacier. The climb will begin from there
on. Weather that wreaked havoc on everything in Nepal seems to be completely
in another fashion here in Tibet, where it is dry and sunny mostly... We do
hope it keeps this way.
I will be updating the climb regularly- keep watching the news! You can also
watch our team's advance on the web page of www.globalstar.com.tr by SPOT
personal tracking device...
Great thanks to my sponsors CNN Turk, The North Face, Solgar, Isdestek,
Suunto and Scala MICE, and my climbing club ZIRVE DAGCILIK KLUBU for their
Dispatch One: Dear Friends and Followers,
Here I am, back again at rainy Katmandu almost 3 months after
the Makalu climb in spring. All seems so familiar, and monsoon seems to go
on full force, drizzling along all day. Only today sun was shining on the
damp streets of Katmandu. I hope all this rain and clouds don't add up as
extra snow high up on Shishapangma!
Well I arrived in Katmandu 2nd evening, and will move to
Tibet by 7th September. Time is barely enough to get the Chinese visa for
Tibet and make the necessary preparations whatsoever. It seems there are
too many things to do and little time....
We will follow the so -called highway to Kodari (Chinese
border), Zhangmu, Nyalam and passing thru the Lalung La pass (5200 metres)
we should reach the Shisha BC in a week. The climb will be along the
classical route line of the north side, with Advanced\ed Base Camp at an
altitude of 5600 metres or so.
My partner in this climb will be Dawa Sherpa of Loding, an
Everest traverse record holder and my good comrade, and beyond base camp we
will be practically on our own.
Again, great thanks to all my sponsors! This climb is
supported by my club 'Zirve Dagcilik Kulubu', CNN Turk, The North Face,
Solgar, Globalstar Avrasya telecom, Suunto watches and Isdestek.
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.