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  7 Summits Everest Expedition: Evening news from Everest, good enough ....

Today, in a day, Tibetan climbers have completed the preparation of route, now the rope fixed up along the whole route to the summit. The way is open. Weather still gives hope for a successful ascent. Wind is within allowable in power. On the scheduled day, it should not worsen. The whole team (8 members, 8 Sherpas and 3 guides) are now in a camp at an altitude of 7800 meters. On May 20, in the morning, they will go to the assault camp at 8,300 m. And the same evening, that is, tomorrow, the whole team should go into the assault of Everest. All are doing well. A. Abramov
 

17/05/2011 20:38: Plans are defined...
Expedition leader Alexander Abramov has sent information from the camp ABC. A summit bid for the expedition 7 Summits Club is scheduled for the night of 20 to 21 May. The Chinese have promised to finalize the route and fix ropes up to the summit on May 20. Tomorrow, May 18, the entire group of 19 people pulled out of ABC to the North Col camp (7000 meters). May, 19 to the camp at 7500 meters. May, 20 to the assault camp at altitude of 8300 meters. May, 21 - an attempt to climb the summit. Now all members of the expedition is preparing for exit

Specifically, members:
Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik
Andrey Podolyan (39) Moscow
Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin
Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk
Yuri Beloivan (44) Moscow
Roman Gretzky (39) Moscow
Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.
guides of the expedition:
Sergey Larin (51) Tver
Noel Hanna (44) Ireland
Victor Bobok (50) Moscow
and 9 Sherpas ....
Alexander Abramov, plans to stay the climb from camp ABC.
 

Earlier:

The 7 Summits Club Everest expedition continues to wait for completing preparation of route. Under contracts, it had to be done by Tibetans, employees of the local Association of mountaineering. However, their forces are not enough, a lot of snow, wind ... It must be other solutions, they need help by expeditions. However, a potential for this is not so big, every expedition leader takes care of his Sherpas to work with clients. But there is no other exit, you need to sacrifice something for the common cause.
Last week, in two days more than 40 climbers reached the summit of Everest from the south. Including a large number of commercial members. And one of the guides of Alpine Ascent Michael Horst made a significant achievement - he climbed the summits both Everest and Lhotse in a day.
Our other expeditions. Israfil Ashurly in the team of Alexey Bolotov attempted to climb Kanchenjunga. However, our climbers were stopped by strong wind and now they are preparing for the second attempt. Also, the wind did not allowed to climb Shisha Pangma for Donetsk team of climbers led by Sergei Kovalev. They will also prepare for a new assault.
 

Earlier:

The expedition of 7 Summits Club went out from the base camp for climbing to the summit of Everest. All members and guides of the team underwent acclimatization, during which climbed to the top Changtse (North Peak of Everest) or to a height of 7500 meters on the classic route. We plan to climb by two groups. The first group is scheduled to leave for summit bid on May 16, the second - on May 17.

Expedition:
The main part of the expedition (with permit on Everest):
Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik
Andrew Podolyan (39) Moscow
Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin
Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk
Yuri Beloyvan (44) Moscow
Roman Grezky (39) Moscow
Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.
Creenagh Popescu (16) Romania cancelled due to illness
 
Group with special permits (without climbing Everest) - their mission is completed:
Valery Rozov (46) Moscow
Denis dips (42) Moscow
Sergey Krasko (49) Moscow
Anatoly Yezhov (64) Archangel
 
Guides of the expedition:
Alexander Abramov (47) Moscow leader of the expedition
Victor Bobok (50) Moscow
Sergey Larin (51) Tver
Nicolay Cherny (72) Moscow
Noel Hanna (44) Ireland
 

Earlier:

Today, Nikolay Cherny, Sergei Larin, and Noel Hanna, along with a team of Sherpas went to the base camp at North side of Everest. A day before, there was a meeting with the legendary Miss Elizabeth Hawley. A journalist, in the past, this 87 years old lady, is the main authority in the Himalayan mountaineering. Even she has not made any ascent itself. Hawley in her place, is both a chronicler number 1, directly receiving an information about Himalayan expeditions, and a referee deals in complicated situations. Unexpectedly for us, this remarkable woman personally paid a visit to the hotel where located Alexander Abramov and his team.

 

Meanwhile, a small ceremony held in the office of the 7 Summits Club. We farewelled our beloved comrades in Nepal. Victor Bobok and Dmitry Ermakov go to the Himalayas. Dmitry will lead an expedition to the foot of Mount Everest from the south, the main aim of a large group will be climbing Island Peak. Victor will join the team of Alexander Abramov, as a guide of Mount Everest. He wants to climb the summit already by his third route (2004 - North Face direct, 2009 - a classic from the south). We know that Eugene Vinogradsky reached the summit of Everest by three different routes. Or anyone else?
 

Our 2011 Expedition.

The main part of the expedition (with permit on Everest):
Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik
Andrew Podolyan (39) Moscow
Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin
Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk
Yuri Beloivan (44) Moscow
Roman Grezky (39) Moscow
Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.A.
Crina Popescu (16) Romania
Group with special permits (without climbing Everest):
Valery Rozov (46) Moscow
Denis Provalov (42) Moscow
Sergey Krasko (49) Moscow
Anatoly Yezhov (64) Archangelsk
Ovidiu Popescu (47) Romania
Gennady Naykov (44) Moscow
 
Guides of the expedition:
Alexander Abramov (47) Moscow
Sergey Larin (51) Tver
Nikolay Cherny (72) Moscow
Noel Hanna (44) Ireland
Victor Bobok (50) Moscow
 

Earlier:

Today we returned in Kathmandu, after an early flight from Lukla. All of the team enjoyed the acclimatisation trek in the Khumbu a lot. It was very nice to get out of town. Our permits for Tibet are finalized and we will leave Kathmandu early tomorrow morning. We will drive to Kodari and the cross the "friendship bridge" into China to the Border town of Zhangmu. If everything goes smoothly we will continue to Tingri at around 4200m. Here we will spend two more night to finish our acclimatisation before going for base camp.

Earlier:

Our Tibet visa are a little bit delayed, so we decided to go up in the
Khumbu and start our acclimatization. This way we can make some time up during the approach in Tibet. Yesterday we reached Namche Bazar at 3600 metres/11,800 feet. Today we are just hanging out here and enjoying the nice coffee and apple pie..........hard work expedition climbing!

Tomorrow we will head up to Tengboche at around 4000 metres/13,100 feet. After this we will go down and back to Kathmandu. Today I got the good news that all our permits are ready, we only have to get the Tibet entry visa in Kathmandu. We expect to be back in Kathmandu on Wednesday and we will probably cross the Tibetan Border on Thursday!

All the members are doing well and are enjoying the fresh mountain air and great views here! I think we have a very strong group with a lot of experience this expedition, but let's see what the mountain does this year.......stay tuned for more news......
Arnold Coster - expedition leader


 

We look at the Himalayas from south to north. Kanchenjunga.  The team collected by Alexey Bolotov will try to climb this giant mountain. It consists of two top Russian high altitude climbers - Nikolay Totmyanin and Gleb Sokolov. As well as our close friend, president of Mountaineering Federation of Azerbaijan, the snow leopard and the climber at the Seven Peaks Israfil Ashurly. Together with them - Pole Paul Michalski, Romanian Alex Gavan and Italian  Mario Panzer and  Spaniard Antonello Martinez. And also a group of Nepalese climbers. If successful Sherpa Mingma will be the first in the country climbed 14 eight-thousanders ...

 

 

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