Yesterday in good, but cold weather we
climbed again in the steep south face of Hidden Peak.
After a freezing breakfast at 5am we started 1:20 hours
later. As usual our rucksacks have been quite heavy again. Bad luck, on the
route our fixropes have been buried under wind pressed snow. It´s a real
distressing, hard work to put it out again. Therefore we reached our last
depot at 5800m more lately than expected at 11am.
We prepared the rope and Louis climbed ahead. Nobody knows
how freezing it is in winter to belay and wait at the same point until you
can follow your partner after one and a half hour later. The same procedure
followed one by one. This afternoon Louis climbed harder than ever on this
route in difficult rotten rock and hard ice till 70°. Alex and I climbed
behind with the fixropes on the back, each of us carrying more than 20kg.
Finally we stopped our hard work at 4pm at 6100m. At our
last belay point we left more than 1000m of rope, before we started to
abseil down to the foot of the mountain. Twelve hours after our start in
completely darkness, only slight moon light in our back, we reached the BC
exhausted but satisfied.
Today we used the day to recover from the tiring effort.
Tomorrow early morning, motivated by a very good weather forecast from our
friend Dr. Karl Gabl, we will climb up again to establish our first camp at
Yesterday, 02/10/2011, we have used the good
weather and in all premature at -25 ° C from the base camp broken up.
Despite the large burden on our shoulders we could feel the progression of
our acclimatization. Thus we reached as early as 9:30 am, after three hours
of climbing, our depot at 5600m. Up to 2 clock in the afternoon we worked on
the route, to us a strong wind and the cold drove back to base camp. Due to
technical difficulties, we could only reach 5800m, 900m left there, but New
England fixed rope for the next climb.
Now, once regeneration is called for and wait as the
weather is bad in the next few days and snow is called for. Maybe I can use
this time for a first full body cleansing after three weeks and a shave.
As soon as we Dr. Karl Gable is an acceptable weather
forecast we have to leave. Here again, a very formal thank you to Charly,
who is actually an additional team member and supported us well!
We, the ABC team notify us whenever there is news.
When we arrived last Friday for the first
time the base of the wall of the Hidden Peak, we had the whole weekend
including Monday to fight for our base camp. Severe winter storms well over
100km / h ripped away most of our tents. Only by specific, lengthy
additional security measures we could the existence of the base camp safe.
After a good weather forecast for Tuesday by Dr. Karl Gabl we broke
yesterday (8.2.) On a first serious attempt. In painstaking work we fixed
the route up to 5600m where we left a bag with 500m rope and fixing
material. Among other things, we worked around the central couloir of the
south wall very tricky, a vertical 10m high rock wall. Pleased we reached
after about 9 hours of work in the dark, the base camp.
It's a great feeling once again to enter new territory on
an eight-meter peaks. The technical difficulties at the bottom of our route
on Hidden Peak are comparable with the British route on the south wall of
Shisha Pangma or Kinshofer route on Nanga Parbat. overcome such difficulties
in the winter is again another dimension of high altitude mountaineering. In
the upper part uMorgen Thursday, according to Charles Gable a good day, like
Louis, Alex and I drive the route up to 6100m, our planned camp 1.
Gerfried and his comrade Berg are fine. They
are after a stormy night at base camp. Wind speeds around the 120 km / h
they could not sleep. Although bad weather was forecast that the storm would
sweep but in such a violence on the tents, so that no one expected. Today,
Gerfried and co failed to make up the sleep and mainly determine whether
important material is missing
The first two stages of the trek towards base
camp are done. The Trio (Louis Rousseau, Alex and Gerfried Txikon) this
afternoon (local time) both with 26 carriers and two cooks Payu. Already, it
is extremely cold, so we sleep together in the large kitchen tent. Thursday
morning the troops marched on to Urdukas (4050m). Am 31.1., After three
stops, want to be the climbers at Base Camp of the Hidden Peak at 5100m.
Louis Rousseau celebrates the way in a tent with a sip of
brandy his 34th Birthday, well then "Happy Birthday"
Thursday morning began my long and arduous journey. Is
to separate me from my family very hard for me. However, I am looking
forward, this difficult project on which I worked so long and hard to
implement at last. For love of adventure, but also from environmental and
financial reasons, I would march with my friends walk to the base camp of
the Hidden Peak (8080m) and not fly by helicopter. Never before has an
expedition in the winter has imposed such a strain. This is already a
sensation when we, in these arctic conditions at all the wall foot of the
mountain at 5100 meters. Then we will tackle the still tougher: a new route
will allow us the first winter ascent of Hidden Peak.