Unfortunately we had to cancel last Saturday, our attempt at
Despite deep snow and virtually no support from other
climbers ascended the same time, we were able, Alex Txikon, Kilian Volken,
Nisar Hussain and I get tired late on Thursday evening at 18:00 clock and
happy to shoulder the 7800m. We had our arrangements more than met, we had
not only carried ropes, but groomed wide trails. To our misfortune brought
our colleagues the urgent need for ice screws and ropes, the remaining 400
not up to our camp. So we would not have the dangerous bottleneck can
protect us. In our emaciated condition of us was a rope-free climbing to the
summit just too dangerous, too many people were that risk had already been
received and paid for it with their lives. Therefore, we decided one day to
the shoulder on our colleagues to wait, but should first apply to the
Saturday even as a possible summit day.
Our confidence was sadly disappointed. The wind blew hard all
night to our tent, was a departure for the summit is not easy to think
about. So on Saturday morning came the inevitable decision descend back into
the world of which we came.
We have had a brilliant adventure.
We all returned unharmed to the base camp.
Kilian has probably increased by the first Swiss to the Basques route to the
shoulder, and the 60's with a proud years.
We will come again!
Tomorrow, 9 August we set off for home expected next Monday
at home. For me, just in time, so I can at the 16th August together with my
younger daughter Helena to celebrate her first birthday. I hope she invites
me to coffee and cake!!
With warm regards from the K2 base camp
(CET), the expedition
is in their next
7100m altitude. 6.5 hours
the climbers needed
for its present stage.
very good, we're still very
confident," says Gerfried.
"The weather is good, the
snow conditions vary
depending on difficulty.
Time traces, we had knee
deep, then we could
move faster in
ankle-deep snow. Some of the
new snow had fallen
in the previous week has
by the wind. "
Tomorrow, the climbers, the
the K2 7800m. Currently
the team is busy
all day and
the H Orig
return them to the lost
fluid. It is
melted and tries to supply
as much energy in
the form of food, how it is
possible at this altitude.
All the best and
continue toi, toi,
On the "shoulder"
After hours of waiting, the
came at 16.30
via satellite phone:
his team are doing well.
They could reach after 10 hours
of "hard work"
to a height of 7800m.
climbers have had to set up
exhausted, according to
Gerfried still the key
to climb. Therefore,
the entire track was caught
working on Kilian
Txikon and Gerfried.
"I'm getting out
of a rope tearing
hurt, my clothes are wet and
covered in blood. But it is
not so bad.
now set up the tent and snow
I'll call again, "says
Gerfried first words.
The Quartet will meet today to
consider more about
how to proceed. It
may well be that
they were reasting tomorrow and
towards the summit.
for its present
very good, we're
still very confident," says
is good, the
traces, we had
Some of the
in the previous week
by the wind.
the climbers, the
reach the K2
day and prepare
the H Orig
return them to
lost fluid. It
as much energy
the form of food, how it is
possible at this altitude.
All the best
continue toi, toi,
Gerfried reports 15 climbers on K2: All (most) and starting up with goal to
summit on Friday via cesen route. Gerfried and Alex Txikon are at Camp 2. Stay
Kilian Volken, stating all climbers, including two high
altitude porters have now reached the summit of Gasherbrum 2: Hans Wenzl,
Dr.Stefan Zechmann, Karl Leitner, Louis Rousseau, Justin Dube Fahmy, Norbert
Linz, Alex Txikon, Kilian Volken and Willy Imstepf. The two high altitude
porters and Nisar Kazim accompanied the troops. The latter was able to climb
Gasherbrum for the fourth time.
(Specify Gerfried Göschl)
Meanwhile, Gerfried prepares tomorrow's ascent of the route
Basque (= Cesenroute) before. Together with four other climbers, he broke
early on at 02.00 clock in order to bring as many fixed ropes to Camp 3 at a
height of about 7100m. For two days she will be traveling on Monday and
hopefully healthy and happy to be back at base camp.
Gerfried is very proud and pleased with the other
mountaineer. "18 out of 25 climbers, who could at least reach a peak, which
is a sensational success!"
First pictures of the G1 peak / peak victories and the G2 /
Last Wednesday we celebrated a great team success. The following
participants were reached on 13 July in that order 10:45 to 13:00 clock the
summit of Gasherbrum 1 (8080m):
Hans Wenzl (AUT)
Jose Carlos Tamayo (ESP)
Gerfried Göschl (AUT)
Juanra Madariaga (ESP)
Günther Unterberger (AUT)
Zechmann Stefan (AUT)
Txikon Alex (ESP) (claims to)
Rick Allen (GB)
Only by a perfect cooperation of all concerned, it was
possible, the G1 at such a difficult and dangerous conditions to climb. On
summit is emphasize even more the outstanding work of Hans Wenzl track.
Unbelievable how he almost uncatchable in waist-deep snow. After only seven
and a half hours, he reached the summit.
Unfortunately, our friend had to give up to just under 7900m Louis Rousseau,
too, the track and in the Japanese Couloir Fixierarbeit had on 12 July his
forces worked. He did not want to spend even more can still safely descend
the steep wall. These are some pictures you find in the gallery.
Great is also our joy over the successful ascent of
Gasherbrum 2 (8034m) yesterday, Thursday, 14 July. In very deep snow and
changing weather conditions could provide the following participants for
incredible power and reach the summit:
Elio Schijlen (NL)
Harrer Otto (AUT)
Hubert Leitner (AUT)
Toni Rumpl (AUT)
Unfortunately, all successes are still overshadowed by a new
bailout. Our participants Marc-Andre Beliveau (CAN) revealed today in the
morning in camp 3 (6900m) at the G2 serious symptoms of altitude sickness.
Fortunately, he is looked after by our team perfectly G2. After a primary
care his health condition is currently stable and the whole team is already
in the vicinity of Camp 1 (5900m). Meanwhile he is also supplied with
emergency oxygen and set up an emergency field hospital in Camp 1. Louis and
Alex, despite the best efforts of recent days with one of our chefs, Ali
Naqi, with additional oxygen bottles and medicines on their way to Camp 1 to
aid the rescue team today. Louis will be assessed after meeting with the
victims of the situation and teach me about how to proceed. Depending on
whether I'll even tonight or tomorrow early rise in the morning with another
rescue team to support the further descent of G2 and settle our team in
their dedicated work.
Please let us keep our fingers crossed that everything works out!!
After a brief phone conversation with Gerfried morning he
told me that all the climbers arrive at Camp 2 at 6350m. The ascent from the
base camp was exhausting, accompanied by snow and took about 8 hours. As
announced by Dr. Karl Gabl, the weather is better now and should allow
progress. Tomorrow will take the troops by the Japanese Colouir, certainly
the key point of the G1, to camp 3 at 7050m. It will be exciting!
Last week we completed the second acclimatization. All
participants slept for two nights at camp 1 (5900m). At G2 could be
increased up to about 6200m due to avalanche danger. On the G1, we opened
three cliques (Louis Guenther, Gerfried; Alex, Juanra, Tamayo, Hans, Stefan,
Rick) establish a safe and very direct route through the Icefall to
Gasherbrum La and have our second camp (6350m).
Today, all G2 participants to camp 1 have risen. The G1 group was supposed
to direct early morning climb to camp 2.
At 07.00 clock us an emergency, the Swiss group Kobler
reached by Ernst Marti. A Pakistani carrier of a Japanese group should be
saved hard altitude sickness. The Japanese team was unable to help its
wearer (!!!!). Luckily we had brought into the emergency oxygen bearing 1.
The moment was now able to save the life of the carrier. Kobler The team
organized the first shipment.
Immediately, Louis Rousseau and Jose Carlos Tamayo explained prepared with
emergency medications and a rescue sled to break. I took on the task of
coordinating the rescue operation. At 09:00 clock started our second rescue
team on schedule compiled by Stefan MD Zechmann with six men in our group (Günther
Unterberger, Hans Wenzl, Alex Txikon, Juanra Madariaga, Mario Vielmo and
Silvano Forgiarini). Unfortunately for the time being no other team was
willing to help. Thankfully, announced soon after a small Italian team
(Nicola Campani, MD, Anna Lisa and her Pakistani Vioritti Koch) to ascend
it. ALL other groups here at base camp and on the mountain, including many
famous high-altitude climbers, refused any help or left it with lip service!
Pakistani media was even forbidden to help stay fit for his team!
At 11:00 clock reached our van the victim to around 5500m and the highly
sought Kobler team could be replaced. Louis began another emergency,
stabilized the victim and together with four carriers and Tamayo, he could
deny the further removal.
Soon after they met on our second rescue team, which had now joined forces
with the Italians and our MD Stefan was able to examine the victim or
At 13:00 clock we were able to organize another, much-needed emergency
oxygen and send the Pakistani chef of the Japanese high. This would even
prevent a participant of the first Japanese group?! In deteriorating
weather, the now 16-strong rescue team climbed slowly up and down with great
patience by the glacier. In the base camp we are building together with the
doctor of the Pakistan Army, ASIP MD, an emergency hospital with a Gamov-bag
and other emergency oxygen.
Finally arrived exhausted at 16:30 clock the whole team, but
very happy, the base camp. The most important thing is successful, a person
is able to return to his family. At a dinner in our camp, the entire action
discussed and celebrated too.
With great pride I would like to thank to thank all participants in this
bailout. These people is a life much more at heart than any selfish
behavior. They do not look away like so many others. It may be
retrospectively deny many, but everyone has known about the emergency!!
With warm regards from the Gasherbrum Base Camp
Unfortunately I was unable to send a technical problem not
before an update.
Tonight it was the first snow.
Approximately 10 cm cover our base camp, however, seems to reflect the sun
hours already and it thaws.
Unfortunately had to cancel Guido Pagani to personal and health reasons, he
joined the expedition, and together with our accompanying trekkers the
return journey. On Sunday 26
June began for us the first working day on the mountain.
All 24 participants got into the common stock 1 for G1 (8080m) and G2
(8034m) on 5900m.
We spent a first night and came back on Monday morning, tired but happy to
Thus the first important step is done.
Tuesday, was released together with our Pakistani team accompanying the
entire base camp of old rubbish.
We are also still and resting on Thursday 29
again ascend to the second camp on Friday to G1 and G2 (approximately 6400m)
to set up.
Saturday we want to return back to base camp.
With warm regards from the Gasherbrum Base Camp
In the base camp (5050m)
The base camp of the big expedition has come completely furnished.
Since the arrival on Thursday has been feverishly working on it together, it
is as cozy as it is possible under the circumstances to make.
Tomorrow Gerfried and Co. early use of the good weather to spend a first night
on the mountain.
Goes through a clever thing to break up the mountain glacier to camp 1
After returning on Monday, we expect a first detailed progress report.
planned interview should work then. At this hour the
climbers enjoy a well deserved lunch. After that, Gerfried, he gets a
haircut from the barber
First news on 8000plus K2 Expedition 2011
Tomorrow, 12 June, it's that time again, I break for the next trip to
Pakistan. This time I lead a 25 engineers international expedition to the
eight thousand meter Gasherbrum 1 (8080m), Gasherbrum 2 (8034m) and K2
The participants of the 8000plus G1 - G2 - K2 Expedition 2011:
Austria: Gerfried Göschl (leader, 6), Günther Unterberger
(2), Hans Wenzl (3), Dr. Stefan Zechmann, Otto Harrer (1), Hubert Leitner
(1), Anton Rumpl, Karl Leitner (1)
Canada: Louis Rousseau (co-leader, 2), Justin Dubé-Fahmy,
Sylvain Menard, Marc-André Béliveau
Germany: Norbert Linz (1)
Great Britain: Rick Allen (4)
Italy: Giuseppe Pompili (2), Adriano Dal Cin (3), Guido
Pagani, Silvano Forgiarini, Mario Vielmo (8)
Netherlands: Elio Schijlen (1)
Spain: Alex Txikon (7), Jose Carlos Tamayo (4), Juanra
Switzerland: Kilian Volken (3), Willy Imstepf
In parentheses you will find the number of previously boarded 8000. You see,
we are again a very experienced team. I am delighted to be back with so
many long-time mountaineers be on the way :-)
My personal goal with my friends Günther Unterberger, Louis
Rousseau and Alex Txikon, that I make again the ABC team to use the
Gasherbrum 1 for acclimatization and prepare for the debate on K2 to climb a
new route from the east wall .
My big thanks goes out to my esteemed co-sponsors and partners, but also to
Dr. Karl Gable (ZAMG Innsbruck) for the immensely important weather service,
and to colleagues and my wife Heike Martin Göschl green forest. Martin and
Heike will hold back the website up to date :-) I wistfully say goodbye to
my young daughters Hannah and Helena, they will leave me insane?
I hope you follow our expedition and keep our fingers crossed!
In the Annex, a farewell picture of my family!
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