9 September, 2011
Hey, this is Fergal Savage from the Cho Oyu SummitClimb September expedition.
I'm currently at Chinese base camp at 4790 metres. We are all getting on very
well heading to Interim camp early in morning. Special dispatch for my son Tom
who is 7 on the 9th. Happy birthday big man. And to everyone else Hello as
8 September, 2011
Yesterday we reached Cho Oyu Base Camp at roughly 4940 metres. It's only a
short drive from Tingri to get here. Our staff already pitched most of the
tents the day before and prepared a marvelous lunch for us. We spent the rest
of the day exploring the surroundings and preparing our bags for the yaks.
Today we did an acclimatization hike to about 5350 metres; there are many
hills around base camp that can be climbed. Tonight our yaks will arrive, so
we can continue our trip to interim camp at roughly 5400 metres. It's
important for us not to gain altitude too fast, as this way our bodies have
time to adapt.
We probably need about 50 yaks to transport our gear to Advanced Base Camp,
which is going to be our home for the next month. Interim is a very simple
camp located on a meadow between the glacier moraines. After interim we have
to climb a moraine all the way to Advanced Base Camp. It's quite a long way
the first time because our bodies are still adapting.
All members are doing very well. It's a strong team and we get along very
well. There is enough stuff to talk about at the dining table; most off us are
from different countries. My next dispatch will be from Advanced Base Camp in
Arnold Coster, Expedition leader Cho Oyu autumn 2011
8 September, 2011
Hi, this is Max Kausch writing a short dispatch for the Shishapangma
Expedition Autumn 2011. This is for September 8th.
Today, after 1 week, we finally saw the route above camp 3 to the top of
Shishapangma. We are in our second day of acclimatization at BC, 5000m. Grace
and Gary went trekking to the nearby peaks and described amazing views from
We’ll leave BC tomorrow morning with 15 yaks towards advanced basecamp, but
we’ll stop for 1 night on the way. The idea is to gain only 300m to help with
the acclimatization and cut the 15km walk in half. ABC is fairly high, 5800m,
so we have to take it really easy to make sure we are healthy when we get
Today we had a very quiet day so there isn’t much to say. Thank you very much
for reading the news at SummitClimb.com
7 September, 2011
Hi, this is Max Kausch writing a dispatch for the Shishapangma Expedition
We finally made it to basecamp, at 5000m. The place is beautiful! There’s a
grass field where we are and crystal clear river only 20m away from us.
Today was a fairly sad day as we had to say goodbye to the Cho Oyu team. They
are heading to Cho Oyu BC right now and we’ll probably see them in Kathmandu
after we summit Shishapangma. After the adventures we had together (like the
pellet gun war yesterday), we all became good friends and will miss them very
After leaving Tingri, the CTMA drove us for about 2 hours and left us here. We
set basecamp and will leave this place in the day after tomorrow. >From here
on, we are on foot.
6 September, 2011
This is Grace McDonald writing a dispatch for the Shishapangma Expedition
Battle for Ha Hoo Hotel:
Had an interesting day today in Tingri. It started out innocently enough with
breakfast and members heading out for short acclimatization hikes. Some headed
out to the old fort in Tingri and others headed up a local hill. Everyone
reunited for lunch and then we had an afternoon on our hands. Richie
entertained us with some cockney rhyming slang and then me and Gary headed out
to grab some last minute items from the local shop. Yesterday we'd done a
recon mission and discovered they stocked a healthy supply of plastic weaponry
- pellet guns of various design (AK47s, MP5s, Leugers, Shotguns, Berettas
etc.). We had pondered the long rest days at ABC that were ahead of us and
thought it would be a fun idea to buy a couple of these to pass time. So we
decided to go ahead with the plan.
We got back to the room to test out our weapons and fired a few "innocent"
shots at the post outside the window. Of course we also took a few shots at
each other inside the room. All good fun. So there we were in the room with
the window open when pellets started flying through the window. The local
shopkeeper, decided it was time for a turf war. We happily returned pellet
fire as other members got equipped and joined in the fun. The shopkeeper was
joined by friends and we responded from our rooms above. While we had
previously been chasing each other around exchanging pellet fire, this surge
from the shopkeeper and friends really united the team and a full response was
mounted. Paul took the award for the most ingenious combat gear - a garbage
can over his head and sunglasses for eye protection. Max stuck to to the puffy
down jacket and sunglasses and other donned buffs and hid behind curtains.
Protection was essential as the pellets were innocent enough but did leave a
bit of a mark that disappeared after an hour or so. Various hits were taken,
in the nose, between the eyes, behind the ear, torso, legs, etc. The
shopkeeper and friends below us would pop out and take a few shots only to be
bombarded with pellets from above. The battle ensued for hours and we laughed
non stop - so did the shopkeeper and friends.
In order to capture the action on film I took a short assignment embedded with
the enemy on the street. People respected my status as a photo journalist and
I was able to avoid an all out assault. The pics were priceless. By this point
the locals had gathered to watch, women, children, men on motorcycles and
other expedition teams. It was actually quite the event in town. Everyone
seemed to get a kick out of it.Things got a bit complicated when we needed to
restock on ammo as the shopkeeper who was sending pellets through our window
with his friends was our supplier. I was able to safely make a trip down under
a cease fire that was only broken by one of the young friends of the local
shopkeeper. Paul unfortunately was held for a short while on his ammo run and
forced to turn against us in order to gain his freedom. We literally only
ceased fire when dinner time arrived.
We gathered in the dining room, shared photos, compared welts and laughed
again about how the day had transpired. I guess it's safe to say the team is
generally well acclimatized and in good spirits. We're all looking forward to
moving to our base camps tomorrow.
Thanks again for following our dispatches.
5 September, 2011
Hello, this is Grace McDonald (Shishapangma member) with a dispatch for
September 5, 2011 for the Cho Oyu and Shishapangma Expedition Autumn 2011.
We awoke in Nylam to hot showers (for those of us who started early enough)
and hot showers that turned into cold showers (for those of us who did not).
The mere fact we have running showers and flushing toilets at the end of the
hallway is impressive - certainly to those members who remember
accommodations in prior years. Hot or cold, the hotel in Nylam is
practically 5 star compared to previous accommodation options.
After breakfast the jeeps were ready to roll on down the road to Tingri and
we headed back to the hotel to grab out backpacks. Max, Gary and myself (the
Sishapangma team) met a member from another Shishapangma team who is a day
behind us but should be arriving at basecamp along with us. He also filled
us in on an Austrian team that should be arriving shortly. We understand
that's it for expeditions on the North side of Shishapangma - just 4 in
total, not many, but by my count we'll have 3 girls on the mountain and
maybe more once the Austrian team arrives - girl power!
Over the last couple of days we all been seeing and meeting people from many
other expeditions who are heading to Cho Oyu. Should be a much busier place
than it was this Spring but the groups seem very multinational and friendly
so it's shaping up to be a good year.
Into the jeeps we went, joined by Norbu our liaison officer for the Chinese
Tibetan Mountaineering Association. We had a good time getting
acquainted/reacquainted and the ride was actually kind of fun. Gary brought
Toblerone and Norbu brought Chinese Red Bull; which together spell PARTY.
Perhaps not an ideal combination for a drive over the Thong La pass (5300m)
but we all enjoyed ourselves. Most teams stopped a the Thong La Pass to take
pictures of Shishapangma (gorgeous) and all the prayer flags and then
continued on to Tingri. Norbu decided we should have a stop at a location
not far outside of Tingri where the grass was long and the view went all the
way to Everest (if the big fluffy clouds would have moved out of the way!).
It was actually a warm beautiful day on the Tibetan plateau and we walked
through a gorgeous field of barley, took a little sample to nibble on for
the rest of the drive and watched Norbu take a power nap in the long grass.
It was a perfect extra stop to just take it all in.
Tingri, Tingri, Tingri . . . wow that place is changing. It's still pretty
much a one street town filled charming dogs, hard lived people, motorcycles,
honking trucks, dirt and trash BUT, the new hotel which was partially
finished in the Spring is now pretty much complete. We were all treated to
double rooms with ensuite. This was pretty unbelievable for people who had
been here in prior years. There's also a few new stores and restaurants that
have popped up. Tingri - come see it now before it loses it "rustic" charm.
The afternoon was filled with some good entertainment. Gary and I found
super light, plastic AK-47 pellet guns at the store next to the hotel. We
have big plans for war games at base camp. I might opt for the pistol model.
They'll likely break after the first shot but we think the whole "axe in
hand" summit shot is so 2010, we're thinking more of a Charlie's Angels pose
for 2011. We'll see how it goes.
Most of the gang passed the afternoon at the local Nepali restaurant and
stuffed ourselves with "mixed" momos (kind of like dumplings), french fries,
tea and coffee. It was a nice way to pass the time, have a few laughs and
watch the people and animals of Tingri pass by and also some dogs having a
romantic moment. The group is actually getting on really well, lots of great
people, good stories and good energy. Everyone seems to be acclimatizing
well, listening to the leaders and staying positive.
Later in the evening we met for dinner and one of our members, Paul from
South Africa, was recruited to help deal with some currently minor medical
issues on other teams. He's a doctor working at Papua and was happy to offer
what help he could. He was already called twice in Tingri. Thank you Paul !
Samdien, the cook for the Cho Oyu team also arrived this evening from Lhasa
and we found Chimmy, the kitchen helper for Shishapangma, waiting outside
the hotel today. He is a traditional Tibetan nomad with a million dollar
smile who lives on the Tibetan plateau and hangs around Tingri for us to
find him at expedition time. He's headed back to his home on his horse last
night but we'll see him back here in time to head to base camp with us the
day after tomorrow.
A few of us were reluctant to call it a night so early so we hung around in
the hallways chit chatting, no doubt keeping other teams up and then moved
the party into a room - not much of a party as everyone forget to bring beer
and food, but a good opportunity to sit around, pass some time, learn a
little more about each other and have some laughs before calling it a night.
Tomorrow we remain in Tingri to acclimatize. Thanks for following these
dispatches! We all appreciate knowing our friends and families can follow
along on our adventures and we'll do our best to get daily dispatches out
but slight delays may happen due to technological challenges in Tibet. All
Hi, this is Max Kausch
writing a dispatch for the Shishapangma and Cho Oyu expeditions autumn 2011.
We're currently in
Nyalam, 3400m. Today was our 2nd acclimatization day and our members trekked
to a 4300m ridge nearby. It is quite amazing considering that we only left
Kathmandu yesterday. Everyone is feeling amazingly well and the team is
getting on very well.
Brazilian member, Bruno dos Anjos, had to leave Tibet early. He has reached
Kathmandu today and will be flying to Brazil very soon. We will miss him very
much. Take good care Bruno!
Both teams will move to
Tingri tomorrow, which is at 4300m. We will spend 2 nights there and then the
2 teams will split up. Our Shishapangma staff is already on the way to BC and
will set up our tents there.
We'll cross a 5200m pass
tomorrow and will hopefully see Shishapangma for the first time. Also
tomorrow, our teams will be able to see Cho Oyu from near Tingri. The views
from there are amazing.
We will keep you updated
as much as we can.
3 September, 2011
Hi, this is Max Kausch writing a dispatch from Nyalam, Tibet.
Our Cho Oyu and Shishapangma expeditions left Kathmandu together this
morning. Our trip to the Tibetan border was pretty impressive. We saw
stunning landscapes and many Nepali rural houses. Amazingly we had no
incidents on the way, such as landslides or road blockages.
Our members were looking very forward to finally crossing the Tibetan
border. By 13:00 today we had lunch in Zhangmu, the first Tibetan city on
our way to the mountains. We have 6 jeeps driving our members and staff plus
one truck with our 3 thousand kilos of luggage. I'll write more news
tomorrow and also send a few photos.
Thank you for following our expeditions!
31 August, 2011
The next couple of days we will finalize our packing for Cho Oyu. The first
members will arrive tomorrow and the plan is to enter Tibet on Saturday. We
have a nice expedition team from all over the world:
* Arnold Coster - Netherlands (Expedition Leader)
* Bruno Versiani Dos Anjos - Brazil
* Richard Maybank - UK
* Urs Walter Jaggi - Switzerland
* Fergal Savage - Ireland
* Ola Magnus Nerve - Sweden
* Vicen Jolis - Spain
* James Robson - UK
* Paul Liebenberg - South Africa
* Tenji Sherpa - Nepal (Climbing sherpa)
* Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa - Nepal (Climbimg sherpa)
* Dawa Jangbu Sherpa - Nepal (Climbing sherpa)
* Jangbu Sherpa - Nepal (Climbing sherpa)
* Samdien Khompa - China (cook)
We're all looking forward to reaching the mountains again! Stay tuned for
Arnold Coster, Expedition leader
31 August, 2011
Hi, this is Max Kausch writing the first dispatch for the Shishapangma
Autumn 2011 Expedition.
Our plan for the Cho Oyu and Shishapangma expeditions is to leave Kathmandu
on the morning of September 3rd together as one single team, then split the
teams in Tingri (4300m) on the morning of the 6th. It's raining in Kathmandu
in the afternoon pretty much every day and it's not so hot, about 25ºC right
now. We really look forward to meeting our first members who start arriving
today in Kathmandu. Our staff has been working hard on the preparations and
packing before the members arrive.
Thank you for reading the Shishapangma news!
* Maximo Kausch - UK (Expedition Leader)
* Grace McDonald - Canada
* Gary Kellund - USA
* Urs Walter Jaggi - Switzerland (combination with Cho Oyu)
* Paul Liebenberg - South Africa (combination with Cho Oyu)
* Jangbu Sherpa - Nepal (Climbing sherpa)
* Gyalje Sherpa - Nepal (Climbing sherpa)
* Nima Dorje Lama - Nepal (cook)
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.