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Summit Climb's Ama Dablam Expedition: Summit!


31 October -

Yesterday Henri, Kirk and Kunnar left base camp and started their walk back to Lukla and their way back to Kathmandu. They should be in on Lukla on the 1st and fly back to Kathmandu on the 2nd if the weather allows.

Yesterday Mike and Jenifer set off for their summit attempt also, but unfortunately they decided to stop and instead of heading for the summit, just retrieve their gear from camp 1 and camp 2.

Tomorrow Dimitri, Jenifer, Mike and me will start our walk back to Lukla and will be there on the 3rd and fly back to Kathmandu the next day.

We have some new arrivals in Base Camp. Hector and Miguel from Mexico arrived on the 28th and already made a carry to Camp 1. Today they will sleep there and climb higher the next couple of days to finish their acclimatization.

Also Michael and Geoffrey from Australia arrived in Base Camp on the 28th. They will be shearing our base camp, but do their own thing on the mountain. Yesterday they already slept in camp 1 and also stay up to finish their acclimatization.

Maaike from the Netherlands also arrived in Base Camp and is on her way to ABC today together with her Sherpa Gayljin for an acclimatization hike.

So everything is fine here and the weather is still very good.

Here are some facts about the Summits so far.
Henri Geller, Luxembourg, Summit 28 October 10:30am
Kunnar Karu, Estonia, Summit 28 October 10:30am
Arnold Coster, the Netherlands, Summit 28 October 10:30am
Jangbu Sherpa, Nepal, Summit 28 October 10:30am
Dimitri Nichiporav, Russia, Summit 28 October 11:30am
Gayljin Sherpa, Nepal, Summit 28 October 11:30 am

Unfortunately Kirk Reynolds turned around at around 6700m on his summit push together with Palden Sherpa.

Greetings,

Arnold Coster, expedition Leader


29 October -

First team summits!


28 October -

First team going for the summit!


26 October -

Hello SummitClimb News, this is Arnold Coster the leader of the Ama Dablam Expedition calling from Camp 1 at 5700 metres. Im sitting here in our kitchen tent and just finished a delicious meal which our Sherpas made for us. Camp 1 is very comfortable.

We have some good news. Today we set off for our first summit attempt. Going for this summit attempt is Dimitri, Henri, Kirk, Kunnar and me along with Janbu, Palden and Gyalze Sherpa.

The plan is that tonight well sleep in Camp 1. Tomorrow we hope to reach Camp 2 at 5950m and rest there all day because we will be there early in the morning and in the middle of the night well set off for our summit push. Tthe plan is to summit on the 28th if everything goes well.

Then we have a second summit party with Mike and Jennifer and Ang Dorjee Sherpa. They just need a bit more time to rest which is no problem because we still have a lot of time on our expedition. We hope to see them the next day and theyre hopefully going to summit one day behind us.

Ill keep you updated; tomorrow were going for camp two. Thats all for now bye bye.
 

24 October

After a long day of climbing most us the team returned back in Base Camp today. The night before we all slept in Camp 1 at 5700m and the next morning we set off to explore and make a carry to camp 2.

The route to camp 2 is very interesting. It's all rock climbing on very good quality rock. The route traverses along ledges to avoid most of the difficulties, but just before camp 2 there is a big structure called the yellow tower. This tower can't be avoided and is the crux of the whole climb.

If you would have to free climb this pitch it would be quite a challenge, but with the use of fixed ropes it is a lot easier. Specially if you carry a pack. The whole team was able to climb this section without big problems.

Now are back in base. Our acclimatization is finished. We will rest and recover here and try to choose the right day for our summit push.

High Altitude Greetings,

Arnold Coster, Expedition leader


21 October

Hello! This is Jennifer Bohn giving a shout out from basecamp, Ama Dablam. Our expedition is going very well. Weather is very good & our leader, Arnold is fantastic! His laugh alone is enough to inspire you up the mountain. Today is a rest day in BC. Tomorrow we hike up to Camp 1 again. We are on schedule if not a little bit ahead. Sending love to everyone at home! Peace out or Nameste as they say.
 

18 October

We did our acclimatization hike to advanced Base Camp today at 5300m. The whole team is strong and make it in good time up there. The weather is nice, but a bit cold and windy. Today also our staff pitched our tents and kitchen in ABC.

Tomorrow we will have our Base Camp Puja and after lunch we will head back up and spend our first night on the mountain. We will try to reach Camp 1 and then come back down for a rest in Base Camp again.

Looking forward to get more close to the route,

Greetings,

Arnold Coster, Expedition leader


17 October

Today we had a day of training in Base Camp. In the morning we went over the usage off the Gamov bag, this is a portable compression chamber we can use to treat altitude sickness. It very easy to use and an important part of our safety equipment.

After lunch we had some rope practice on one off the rock above base camp. We just reviewed some ascending and rappelling techniques to make sure we are all on the same pass.

Tomorrow we will do our acclimatization hike to Advanced Base Camp and return back to Base Camp again. Followed by our Base Camp puja the next day.

So all is well,

Greetings, Arnold Coster Expedition Leader.


16 October -

This morning we had our expedition blessed by Lama Geshi in Pangboche.

Traditionally all expedition who pass Pangboche visit this Lama, a Buddhist high priest. He reads a special prayer for our expedition to explain the mountain god of Ama Dablam that we will do no harm.

Our equipment and personal luggage left early this morning on Yaks to Base Camp, so when we arrived in the camp it was already set up.

Our cook Dorje cooked us a delicious fresh meal and our first dinner in our new home.

Tomorrow we will do some rope practice in Base camp, just to review our skills and a little bit of exercise to improve our acclimatization.

The team is strong and everybody is doing well.

Greetings,

Arnold Coster, expedition leader


15 October -

The 12th we left Kathmandu, it was a long wait due to weather on the airport before we finally took off and flew to Lukla.

There was a small gap in the clouds and Lukla airport opened briefly in the afternoon, just enough time to get us there and start our expedition.

The same day we still managed to walk to Phakding and spend our first night in the mountains.

The next morning we woke up early for our hike to Namche Bazar. Its a beautifull walk true the pine forest alongside the Duth Koshi river.

Just before Namche the trail goes up a long hill before we reach namche.

Namche is the Sherpa capital in Nepal, its a nice place to hang out and has many shops, restaurants, bakeries etc

Today we walked to the Everest view point and had our first view on Everest and Ama Dablam.

Tomorrow the Ama Dablam and Island peak groups will go separate ways. Both expeditions will dispatch separate about their trip.

This is it for now,

Greetings,

Arnold coster, expedition leader Ama Dablam


Team Roster:

Arnold Coster (Leader), Netherland
James Michael Daniels, USA
Ms. Jennifer Louise Bohn, USA
Avraham Zeevi, Israel
Dmitri Nichiporov , Russia
Kunnar Karu, Estonia
Richard Thomas Maybank, UK
Thomas Pfeiffer, Germany
Kirk Alfred Reynolds, USA
Henri Geller, Luxembourg
Miguel Cruz y Celis, Mexico
Hector Mario Ponce de Leon Gomez, Mexico
Geoffrey Allen Gibson, Australia
Michael Anthony Jackson, Australia
Ms. Marigje E. Braat, Netherland
Staff:

Gyalze Sherpa Climbing Sherpa
Palden Sherpa Climbing Sherpa
Jangbu Sherpa Climbing Sherpa
Ang Dorjee Sherpa Climbing Sherpa
Thile Sherpa BaseCamp Manager
Nima Dorjee Lama - Cook

 

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