Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  Mt. Everest 2007: SummitClimb Nepal Everest / Lhotse Update from Dan Mazur from Everest base camp


This is Dan calling from SummitClimb, it’s the 8th of April, it’s 3:30pm Nepal time. I’m calling in with a dispatch for the Everest-Lhotse Expedition. We reached Base Camp today at 5,300 meters. With me in Base Camp are Bill, Mark, Paul, Daniel, and also the staff we have here are Kaji, Phuri, Lakpa Garmu, Temba, Jai Bahadur, Tenje, Lhakpa Chiri, and Jangbu.

In Gorak Shep this morning just before setting out for Base Camp I saw Terry with his Sherpa Lakpa Gyalu and I saw Simon there as well from the Ama Dablam Expedition and he had a headache and he was planning to rest a few days in Gorak Shep. I heard that Nancy and Kandu walked down on the 6th from Pheriche and we expect Bruce, Philip and Florin together with Lakpa Kongle up hear very soon. The weather’s been pretty good. It snowed yesterday afternoon. This morning was beautiful and sunny for our walk up to the Everest Base Camp. We’ve got Base Camp well set up, it’s getting cloudy again this afternoon, doesn’t look like it’s going to be a very serious storm or anything. There are a lot of teams here in Base Camp. We heard that the Icefall doctors have finished the route to Camp 1 today. We plan to rest and acclimatize tomorrow and then do some acclimatization hikes around Base Camp before we set off to Camp 1. So we’ll keep you posted. Thank you very much, bye bye.

Earlier: Dan Mazur reported in all is well as they continue to more toward base camp. Unfortunately due to a big phone line connection to America, Dan's dispatch was too bad to upload. Buy Dan reported all is well as they move up...

earlier dispatch: bill is sending you these photos today as its his last time sending photos.

 

photo caption 1 Phuri Sherpa, Lakpa Chiri Sherpa, Mark Luscher, Tenji

Sherpa, Daisy & Bill Burke

 

photo caption 2 First view of Mt. Everest from Namche Bazaar

 

 

Pangboche April 4, 2007

 

Namaste: I suffered my first setback in Namche Bazaar when I came down with altitude sickness on our rest day.  The sight of food caused my stomach to do turn flips.  Dan Mazur, our trip leader, thinks this might have been caused by the two large pizzas Mark and I ate upon arrival in Namche.  The end result is that I couldn’t eat for 1-1/2 days. I wasn’t too concerned because this is a common ailment at high altitude. Other than the stomach problem, I felt great—no headache, shortness of breath or any of the more serious problems caused by altitude. The trek from Namche (11,300 feet) to Pangboche (12,700 feet) was very difficult, with lots of ups and downs.  Since I was climbing with no fuel in my tank, the trek was even more difficult for me.  By the time I arrived in Pangboche, I felt much better with the additional time for acclimatization. Last night, I ate almost a full dinner.  I had the best sleep of the trip, and woke up this morning feeling great.  I almost have my full appetite back.  As I type this report, I am eating a hot bowl of chicken soup, just like home.

 

Today, we attended a Puja, which is a Buddhist Prayer Ceremony, led by a Lama, which is a Buddhist Priest.  It was very interesting.  He was a kindly, elderly man with a friendly, warm demeanor and an easy laugh.  When he asked the age of Mark and me, he laughed because he had to look up an appropriate prayer for person of our age.  We each presented him with a scarf (with 500 rupees wrapped inside the scarf).  He opened the scarf and let the money fall out.  He then blessed the scarf, said a prayer and put the scarf around our neck.  I checked this out before the trip with my retired and senior pastor  (who is also a beloved friend), and he suggested some ideas that allowed me to honor this tradition, while at the same time respecting and honoring my faith.  During the ceremony, I wore a cross that was given to my wife, Sharon, by my granddaughter, Bailey.

 

The children in these mountain villages are educated through grade 3, and they are trying to increase this to grade 6.  There is a high school in Kunde, which is just above Namche Bazaar.  Those children with relatives in Namche, and the means to finance an education, can attend this high school. There is only one hospital, which is in Kunde, which makes it difficult for the people in these villages to receive appropriate health care.

 

Today, we trek to Pheriche, which is an easy climb—only about 1-1/2 hours. In fact, the rest of the trek to Base Camp (5 more days) is a moderate climb.

 

Thanks for your continued prayers and support.

 

Bill Burke

 

 

Our expedition team is

 

Dan Mazur. USA.

Philip Ling. Australia.

Bruce Manning. England

Florin Grama. Romania

Daniel Kim. USA

Mark Luscher. USA

Bill Burke. USA.

Paul Fitzpatrick. USA.

Terry Schuck. USA

 

Our Sherpa team is

 

Lhakpa Chiri. Personal Sherpa to Mark Luscher

Lhakpa Congle. Climbing Sherpa

Phuri Sherpa. Climbing Sherpa

Tenje Sherpa. Personal Sherpa to Bill Burke

Lhakpa Galu. Personal Sherpa to Terry

Kaji Sherpa. Sirdar

Jai Bar-Dur. Cook

Dawa Jangbu Sherpa. High altitude porter

Lhakpa Tundu Sherpa. Climbing Sherpa and Camp 2 cook.

Temba Sherpa. Kitchen staff

 

Dan Mazur, Bill Burke and Mark Luscher flew to Lukla a few days ago and are currently acclimatizing in Namche Bazaar, 3445m, the capital of the Sherpa kingdom. They will trek to Pangboche, 3985m tomorrow. Over the next few days the rest of our expedition team will also fly to Lukla and start the trek to Everest/Lhotse Base Camp at 5400m. Philip Ling on behalf of Summitclimb.com

Dispatches

Dan Mazur who has reached the summit of 7 of the world's highest mountains, including Everest and K2, and has led and/or organized expeditions to more than 60 Himalayan, African, and South American peaks will return to Everest again in 2007. Below is some information on this Everest / Lhotse expeditions.

EVEREST - NEPAL The original first-ascent route. Places are still available in our 2007 expedition. Full Service price reduced to: $26,450. Expedition leader Dan Mazur. Leading Everest climbs since 1991. 29 March to 6 June, 2007 and 2008.

Often spelled: "Chomolangma", "Sagarmatha", "Qomolungma", "Chomolungma", "Qomolongma", "Chomolongma", "Qomolangma".

The most coveted peak in the world from the easiest route, with the highest chance of success. 

From left to right: Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse. A picture postcard view.

We provide generous discounts for groups of two or more.

When you see the high level of service we provide, as well as low budget options, you may agree that the cost is affordable, inexpensive, even cheap.

29 March to 6 June, 68 days in Nepal in 2007, 2008 and 2009.

Daniel Mazur on the summit of Everest, after climbing it from the Nepal side. Don't forget to take off YOUR oxygen mask for the photo, when YOU reach the summit. Makalu and Kangchenjunga in the Backround. (Photo: Roman Giutashvili)

The route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953

Arnold Coster from Rotterdam, our leader in advanced basecamp at 5600 metres (Roland Debare). Daniel Mazur, in Everest basecamp (J.C. Pratt) .Greg Mills, Murari Sharma, Dan Mazur, and Troy Chatwin at Everest basecamp in April 2004 (Murari Sharma). A meeting on the roof of our hotel, where we describe the plan of our expedition. The audience, our trekkers and climbers (Franck Pitula).

On the Hillary Step (DL Mazur).

Jon Pratt crossing a ladder in the Khumbu ice fall at 5600 metres (Dan Mazur).

One of our nine excellent cooks, brewing up another fine meal. (DL Mazur).

   

Ryan Waters on the summit, wearing one of our oxygen sets. Team member and Sherpa oxygen supplies cached in the storage tent in ABC. All of our oxygen is hand checked and the bottles, masks, hoses, and regulators are carefully matched. We guarantee 100 percent of our oxygen to work perfectly. Any oxygen bottles and equipment unused will be repurchased for 70 percent of what you payed. On the far right of the photo, you can see our hot water hand washing water reservoir and soap, where everyone washes their hands before each meal, in order to maintain good hygiene (Ryan Waters).

Descending the fixed lines from the summit. Most accidents occur on descent. Its a time for the utmost concentration and good hydration and nutrition. This is when you find out how fit you really are (Ryan Waters).

Introduction: Climb Everest (8,848 Metres)  

Everest is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world. The south (Nepalese) side is the route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of the year. Our proposed schedule allows for two potential summit attempts.

This expedition to Everest maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, and many other 8,000 metre summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese officials who regulate the permit system.  We must also give credit to the highly experienced and hard-working climbing Sherpas, cooking and office staff.

Detailed Description

The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu, and the staff will personally meet your flight at Tribhuvan airport.   You stay in a comfortable, simple, clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine, at minimal expense.  During our free day in Kathmandu, we shall finalize arrangements, and take some time out for trinket hunting, with planned visits to explore the 17th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan.

Early the following morning we fly to Lukla at 2860 metres., where we meet our yak drivers,  and porters.  If there is time, we will trek to Monjo (2652m), and spend the night. For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Everest trek site: Everest Trek.

              

Trekking in the Khumbu valley. Yaks carry our gear (Bob Rowe). Crossing a bridge under rhododendron forests. (DL Mazur) Our team in basecamp (DL Mazur).

We will continue our trek up to Namche Bazaar (3446m), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here we rest for a day to acclimate, then proceed up to Deboche (3757m) for a night, then to Lobuche (4930m), where we have another acclimatization day. Finally, we make the last trek to basecamp at 5300 metres. After resting, organising, and training in basecamp for a day, we will begin our climb. We start with a day hike through the awe inspiring Khumbu Icefall, followed by a trip to the plateau of the Western Cwm, for our first glimpse of Camp 1, at 5800 metres. We return to basecamp for a tasty dinner,  prepared by our skilled cooks.  

  

Anatoly Bukreev and Vladimir Balyberdin at basecamp. (DL Mazur). On the South Col of Everest (Gennady Kopieka)

          

Diane in the icefall (Dan Mazur). Tent lashed to its platform in camp 3 at 7200 metres (Dan Mazur)Climber in the Lhotse Face (Scott Darsney). Chris Shaw on the face at 8100 metres during an early summit attempt (Dan Mazur)

Climbing at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face (DL Mazur).

Through the following weeks, we  will climb up and down the mountain, exploring the route, establishing camps, and carefully and safely building our acclimatization level. From camp 1 at 6000 metres, the route traverses the flattish bottom of the Western Cwm, to 6200 metres where camp 2 is located. Camp three is on the head wall of the Lhotse face at about 7200 metres. The south Col, is the highest camp, and at 8000 metres it is a windy and cold place. We take our time, climbing up and down to acclimate, which gives us the best chance to ascend in safety and maximize our opportunity to reach the summit during the "weather windows" which generally open in May. The route to the summit winds through snow ice and rock fields, at a 10 to 50 degree angle. These slopes are not considered technical, but there is exposed rock here in the spring, and lines are often fixed. Fixed rope is often placed on the small vertical pitch of the 6 metre high Hillary step, and the summit lies directly above. Truly the most classic route on the world's most classic mountain.  Welcome to our team!

            

Looking up at the summit from the south col. Climbing at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face. Approaching the Hillary Step. Climbing on the Hillary Step  (DL Mazur)

The view from the summit, looking west to Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Pumori, and many others  (DL Mazur) .


SUGGESTED DAY-BY-DAY ITINERARY FOR EVEREST CLIMB

1. Arrive Kathmandu (1,300 meters).  Hotel.
2. In Kathmandu; visit temples; city tour; shopping.  Hotel.
3. Fly to Lukla (2860m).  Walk to Phakding (2652m). Teahouse or camping.
4. Walk to Namche Bazaar (3446m).  Teahouse or camping.
5. Rest and acclimatization in Namche.  Teahouse or camping.
6. Walk to Pangboche (3757m).  Teahouse or camping.
7. Walk to Pheriche (4250m).  Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping.
8. Walk to Dugla (4620m).  Teahouse or camping.
9. Walk to Lobuche (4930m).  Teahouse or camping.
10. Walk to Gorak Shep (5140m). Teahouse or camping.
11. Walk to basecamp (5300m).
12. Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp.
13. Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp.
14. Climb partway to camp 1 at 5800 metres. Return to basecamp.
15. Rest in basecamp.
16. Climb to camp 1 at 5800 metres. Return to basecamp.
17. Rest in basecamp.
18. Climb to Camp 1, sleep there.
19. Walk to camp 2 at 6200 metres, return  to camp 1, sleep there.
20. Return to basecamp.
21. Rest in basecamp.
22. Rest in basecamp.
23. Walk to camp 1, sleep there.
24. Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there.
25. Rest in camp 2.
26. Explore route to Camp 3 (7300m), return to camp 2, sleep there.
27. Return to basecamp.
28. Rest in basecamp.
29. Rest in basecamp.
30. Rest in basecamp.
31. Walk to camp 1, sleep there.
32. Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there.
33. Rest in camp 2.
34. Walk to Camp 3. Sleep there.
35. Explore route to camp 4 at 8000 metres, return to camp 2. Sleep there.
36. Return to basecamp.
37. Rest in basecamp.
38. Rest in basecamp.
39. Rest in basecamp.
40. Walk to camp 2, sleep there.
41. Rest in camp 2.
42. Walk to camp 3, sleep there.
43. Walk to camp 4, sleep there.
44. Attempt summit.
45. Attempt summit.
46. Return to camp 2, sleep there.
47. Return to basecamp.
48. Rest in basecamp.
49. Rest in basecamp.
50. Rest in basecamp.
51. Rest in basecamp.
52. Walk to camp 2, sleep there.
53. Walk to camp 3, sleep there.
54. Walk to camp 4, sleep there.
55. Attempt summit.
56. Attempt summit.
57. Return to camp 2.
58. Pack up camp 2.
59. Return to basecamp.
60. Pack up basecamp.
61. Pack up basecamp.
62. Trek down to Pheriche. Camp.
63. Trek down to Pangboche. Teahouse or camping.
64. Trek to Namche, Teahouse or camping.
65. Trek to Lukla. Teahouse or camping.
66. Flight to Kathmandu.  Hotel.
67. Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping.  Hotel.
68. Fly Home. Thanks for joining our expedition!

 

 

 

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14 mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine Fit, and even lighter Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

 

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
  
CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
  
Headlamps

   Hestra
  
Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
  
Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
  
Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
  
Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2005 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it