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  Mt. Everest 2007: SummitClimb Nepal Everest / Lhotse: Dan and Phil report in on the death of a Sherpa from another team


NOTE ALL MEMBERS AND SHERPAS FROM THE SUMMITCLIMB TEAM ARE FINE.

Dan and Phil's dispatch:

Hi, this is Dan calling with a dispatch from the SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today is April 26 and the time is 11:30am local time. Today our team of seven members and six Sherpas attempted to go up to Camp 3. We turned around at the bergschrund at the base of the Lhotse Face because of an accident, a fatality, with a Sherpa from another group. All members of our team are fine. I’m going to pass the phone to Philip Ling, so he can give a better description of what he saw.

This is Philip Ling from the SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition. We left Camp 2 at about 7:30am this morning. As we approached the bergschrund where the Lhotse Face meets the Western Col it appeared a Sherpa had an accident. He was climbing the fixed lines and a block of ice apparently fell from the bergschrund and hit him in the head injuring him fatally. As we approached the scene the body was being buried by another team. We helped with the burial and we helped clean up at the base of the ropes. It was quite a nasty mess. Out of respect for the Sherpa who died, and also following the respects of our own Sherpas we decided to turn around, head back to Camp 2 and we’ll think about what happened and make some more decisions tonight and tomorrow. Thank you very much.

Dispatches

Dan Mazur who has reached the summit of 7 of the world's highest mountains, including Everest and K2, and has led and/or organized expeditions to more than 60 Himalayan, African, and South American peaks will return to Everest again in 2007. Below is some information on this Everest / Lhotse expeditions.

EVEREST - NEPAL The original first-ascent route. Places are still available in our 2007 expedition. Full Service price reduced to: $26,450. Expedition leader Dan Mazur. Leading Everest climbs since 1991. 29 March to 6 June, 2007 and 2008.

Often spelled: "Chomolangma", "Sagarmatha", "Qomolungma", "Chomolungma", "Qomolongma", "Chomolongma", "Qomolangma".

The most coveted peak in the world from the easiest route, with the highest chance of success. 

From left to right: Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse. A picture postcard view.

We provide generous discounts for groups of two or more.

When you see the high level of service we provide, as well as low budget options, you may agree that the cost is affordable, inexpensive, even cheap.

29 March to 6 June, 68 days in Nepal in 2007, 2008 and 2009.

Daniel Mazur on the summit of Everest, after climbing it from the Nepal side. Don't forget to take off YOUR oxygen mask for the photo, when YOU reach the summit. Makalu and Kangchenjunga in the Backround. (Photo: Roman Giutashvili)

The route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953

Arnold Coster from Rotterdam, our leader in advanced basecamp at 5600 metres (Roland Debare). Daniel Mazur, in Everest basecamp (J.C. Pratt) .Greg Mills, Murari Sharma, Dan Mazur, and Troy Chatwin at Everest basecamp in April 2004 (Murari Sharma). A meeting on the roof of our hotel, where we describe the plan of our expedition. The audience, our trekkers and climbers (Franck Pitula).

On the Hillary Step (DL Mazur).

Jon Pratt crossing a ladder in the Khumbu ice fall at 5600 metres (Dan Mazur).

One of our nine excellent cooks, brewing up another fine meal. (DL Mazur).

   

Ryan Waters on the summit, wearing one of our oxygen sets. Team member and Sherpa oxygen supplies cached in the storage tent in ABC. All of our oxygen is hand checked and the bottles, masks, hoses, and regulators are carefully matched. We guarantee 100 percent of our oxygen to work perfectly. Any oxygen bottles and equipment unused will be repurchased for 70 percent of what you payed. On the far right of the photo, you can see our hot water hand washing water reservoir and soap, where everyone washes their hands before each meal, in order to maintain good hygiene (Ryan Waters).

Descending the fixed lines from the summit. Most accidents occur on descent. Its a time for the utmost concentration and good hydration and nutrition. This is when you find out how fit you really are (Ryan Waters).

Introduction: Climb Everest (8,848 Metres)  

Everest is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world. The south (Nepalese) side is the route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of the year. Our proposed schedule allows for two potential summit attempts.

This expedition to Everest maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, and many other 8,000 metre summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese officials who regulate the permit system.  We must also give credit to the highly experienced and hard-working climbing Sherpas, cooking and office staff.

Detailed Description

The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu, and the staff will personally meet your flight at Tribhuvan airport.   You stay in a comfortable, simple, clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine, at minimal expense.  During our free day in Kathmandu, we shall finalize arrangements, and take some time out for trinket hunting, with planned visits to explore the 17th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan.

Early the following morning we fly to Lukla at 2860 metres., where we meet our yak drivers,  and porters.  If there is time, we will trek to Monjo (2652m), and spend the night. For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Everest trek site: Everest Trek.

              

Trekking in the Khumbu valley. Yaks carry our gear (Bob Rowe). Crossing a bridge under rhododendron forests. (DL Mazur) Our team in basecamp (DL Mazur).

We will continue our trek up to Namche Bazaar (3446m), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here we rest for a day to acclimate, then proceed up to Deboche (3757m) for a night, then to Lobuche (4930m), where we have another acclimatization day. Finally, we make the last trek to basecamp at 5300 metres. After resting, organising, and training in basecamp for a day, we will begin our climb. We start with a day hike through the awe inspiring Khumbu Icefall, followed by a trip to the plateau of the Western Cwm, for our first glimpse of Camp 1, at 5800 metres. We return to basecamp for a tasty dinner,  prepared by our skilled cooks.  

  

Anatoly Bukreev and Vladimir Balyberdin at basecamp. (DL Mazur). On the South Col of Everest (Gennady Kopieka)

          

Diane in the icefall (Dan Mazur). Tent lashed to its platform in camp 3 at 7200 metres (Dan Mazur)Climber in the Lhotse Face (Scott Darsney). Chris Shaw on the face at 8100 metres during an early summit attempt (Dan Mazur)

Climbing at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face (DL Mazur).

Through the following weeks, we  will climb up and down the mountain, exploring the route, establishing camps, and carefully and safely building our acclimatization level. From camp 1 at 6000 metres, the route traverses the flattish bottom of the Western Cwm, to 6200 metres where camp 2 is located. Camp three is on the head wall of the Lhotse face at about 7200 metres. The south Col, is the highest camp, and at 8000 metres it is a windy and cold place. We take our time, climbing up and down to acclimate, which gives us the best chance to ascend in safety and maximize our opportunity to reach the summit during the "weather windows" which generally open in May. The route to the summit winds through snow ice and rock fields, at a 10 to 50 degree angle. These slopes are not considered technical, but there is exposed rock here in the spring, and lines are often fixed. Fixed rope is often placed on the small vertical pitch of the 6 metre high Hillary step, and the summit lies directly above. Truly the most classic route on the world's most classic mountain.  Welcome to our team!

            

Looking up at the summit from the south col. Climbing at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face. Approaching the Hillary Step. Climbing on the Hillary Step  (DL Mazur)

The view from the summit, looking west to Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Pumori, and many others  (DL Mazur) .


SUGGESTED DAY-BY-DAY ITINERARY FOR EVEREST CLIMB

1. Arrive Kathmandu (1,300 meters).  Hotel.
2. In Kathmandu; visit temples; city tour; shopping.  Hotel.
3. Fly to Lukla (2860m).  Walk to Phakding (2652m). Teahouse or camping.
4. Walk to Namche Bazaar (3446m).  Teahouse or camping.
5. Rest and acclimatization in Namche.  Teahouse or camping.
6. Walk to Pangboche (3757m).  Teahouse or camping.
7. Walk to Pheriche (4250m).  Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping.
8. Walk to Dugla (4620m).  Teahouse or camping.
9. Walk to Lobuche (4930m).  Teahouse or camping.
10. Walk to Gorak Shep (5140m). Teahouse or camping.
11. Walk to basecamp (5300m).
12. Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp.
13. Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp.
14. Climb partway to camp 1 at 5800 metres. Return to basecamp.
15. Rest in basecamp.
16. Climb to camp 1 at 5800 metres. Return to basecamp.
17. Rest in basecamp.
18. Climb to Camp 1, sleep there.
19. Walk to camp 2 at 6200 metres, return  to camp 1, sleep there.
20. Return to basecamp.
21. Rest in basecamp.
22. Rest in basecamp.
23. Walk to camp 1, sleep there.
24. Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there.
25. Rest in camp 2.
26. Explore route to Camp 3 (7300m), return to camp 2, sleep there.
27. Return to basecamp.
28. Rest in basecamp.
29. Rest in basecamp.
30. Rest in basecamp.
31. Walk to camp 1, sleep there.
32. Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there.
33. Rest in camp 2.
34. Walk to Camp 3. Sleep there.
35. Explore route to camp 4 at 8000 metres, return to camp 2. Sleep there.
36. Return to basecamp.
37. Rest in basecamp.
38. Rest in basecamp.
39. Rest in basecamp.
40. Walk to camp 2, sleep there.
41. Rest in camp 2.
42. Walk to camp 3, sleep there.
43. Walk to camp 4, sleep there.
44. Attempt summit.
45. Attempt summit.
46. Return to camp 2, sleep there.
47. Return to basecamp.
48. Rest in basecamp.
49. Rest in basecamp.
50. Rest in basecamp.
51. Rest in basecamp.
52. Walk to camp 2, sleep there.
53. Walk to camp 3, sleep there.
54. Walk to camp 4, sleep there.
55. Attempt summit.
56. Attempt summit.
57. Return to camp 2.
58. Pack up camp 2.
59. Return to basecamp.
60. Pack up basecamp.
61. Pack up basecamp.
62. Trek down to Pheriche. Camp.
63. Trek down to Pangboche. Teahouse or camping.
64. Trek to Namche, Teahouse or camping.
65. Trek to Lukla. Teahouse or camping.
66. Flight to Kathmandu.  Hotel.
67. Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping.  Hotel.
68. Fly Home. Thanks for joining our expedition!

 

 

 

 

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