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Philip
Ling with Fausto de Stefani and Sergio Martini at Camp 3 at 7350 meters |
Philip Ling, from Sydney,
Australia, and St.Anton am Arlberg, Austria, is an Austrian
certified ski instructor and alpine guide, who for many years worked for the
Ski School Arlberg in the Arlberg region of Austria, guiding people down
some of the most extreme off piste terrain in Europe before switching his
focus to climbing the highest mountains on the planet. After two
unsuccessful attempts on Pumori, 7167m in 2005 and 2006, he summitted Cho
Oyu, 8201m in October 2006 without using supplementary oxygen. In April
2007 he climbed Lhotse, 8516m also without oxygen. Here is his summit day
report .After more
than 6 weeks of acclimatising, the process of allowing the human body to
accumulate extra oxygen carrying red blood cells as it compensates for the
reduced oxygen levels at high altitudes, on the 20th of May, 2007, I set out
from Everest/Lhotse Camp 3 at 7350m for Lhotse Camp 4, at 7850m.
I was climbing without
bottled oxygen. All my team mates and Sherpas were climbing with
it, as was nearly everyone else from the other teams. In fact I can
only think of three other climbers apart from myself on the mountain
who were climbing without O's, the Italian legends Fausto de Stefani
and Sergio Martini, both of whom have climbed all 14 mountains in
the world above 8000m. (Only 12 men have ever climbed all 14) and
their younger climbing apprentice, Roberto Manni. A few weeks
earlier their Sherpa had been killed by a rock or block of ice at
the bergshrund at the base of the Lhotse Face. I helped Sergio bury
the body and clean up the mess, and we lent them one of our Sherpas.
The climb to Camp 4
without O2 was somewhat tiring and apart from my summit day on Cho
Oyu in October 2006, perhaps the hardest day of my mountaineering
career. 9 hours of constant up and across the Lhotse Face on sheer
blue ice covered in about 2 inches of fresh snow. Crossing the
yellow band at 7600m, I caught up with, and overtook Fausto Di
Stefani. He was on his hands and knees on the yellow band, gasping
for air, as I had also been during that one long day. Despite this I
made reasonably good time to camp 4, arriving only 30 minutes to an
hour after our fastest member. When I arrived I saw that one of our
tents had not been set up and worse still, the tent's platform had
been prepared either. At almost 8000m, on a pitch of around 45
degrees, it took over 2 hours to dig a ledge big enough to
accommodate the small two person tent that I would be sharing with
Dan. This was valuable time that would have been better spent
resting and rehydrating. It was 7.30pm by the time we had finished.
I was exhausted and dehydrated and as soon as the sun went down I
would be freezing cold, and in less than 8 hours I would be setting
out for the summit.
Not long after we
crawled into the tent Pemba Doma Sherpa stuck her head in. She had
asked us in Base Camp if she could climb with us, but she was not
officially part of our team. Pemba Doma was the first Nepalese
female ever to summit Everest and make it safely back down, and the
first Nepalese female to summit Everest from both sides. We were
very surprised to learn that somehow she had no tent and was
intending to sleep outside just in her sleeping bag! This was
extremely dangerous and unacceptable due to the altitude and the
cold. So we asked her to share our tent. This meant that we were now
3 in a very small 2 person tent, and our gear including our boots
had to be stored outside. I was not happy about the boots, and
looking back on it I should have insisted they be kept inside.
By the time we had
boiled enough water for the next day it was approaching 9.30pm. Dan
and Pemba decided to sleep on oxygen on a 1 litre flow. Again
I resisted using the O’s, and during the night I actually felt very
good, with none of the headaches and sudden gasping for breath
normally associated with this altitude.
After an absolutely
sleepless night due to the cramped conditions in the tent which left
me pushed up against the wet, cold canvas on one side, the next
morning we set out for the summit. Just before leaving I paused at
the oxygen bottles stored outside the tent. With my acclimatisation
to 7850m, I could easily take two bottles and almost guarantee
myself a summit. Or I could attempt what I came for and go for the
summit without using the juice. I kept to my original plan and left
the bottles behind. However soon after setting out my toes started
to get cold due to my boots having spent the night outside the
tent. As I climbed above 8000m however, I surprisingly felt very
strong, better than I had felt climbing up the day before despite
the higher altitude, and most likely due to the extra red blood
cells I had accumulated by climbing without O's above Camp 3 and not
sleeping on oxygen in Camp 4. However my toes were cold. As
I approached the Lhotse Couloir at 8100m my toes were very cold. I
looked at my watch, and estimated it would be at least another 3
hours before the warming sun would reach my position. I pushed up
again.
I was facing a
difficult decision. Do I continue or turn around? By now I could not
feel my toes at all. I had spent 7 weeks getting here. I was
around 400m and 6-7 hours away from summitting Lhotse without using
oxygen. My lungs and legs felt strong and my head was clear. But my
toes were freezing. Do I keep going or not? I pushed up again. Up
ahead I could see someone descending. As they approached I saw it
was my mate Will Cross, who was climbing with another expedition. He
told me he had turned around due to cold feet. Will has climbed the
7 Summits and walked to both the North and South Poles. ‘The
mountain will always be there’ he mumbled through his oxygen mask as
he climbed down past me. He was right. I had seen first hand
climbers who had pushed themselves too far and ended up either with
severe frostbite or paying the ultimate price. I decided to trust my
intuition and turn around, before being forced to by dire
circumstances.
Reluctantly I turned
around and started the long descent to camp 2 at 6400m.
Meanwhile, Pemba Doma
Sherpa was approaching the summit of Lhotse at 8516m. As a Sherpa,
she had inherited the genes over hundreds of years to enable her to
climb high and fast at altitude. The bottled oxygen gave her an
additional turbocharge that very few non sherpas could keep up with.
At around 11.30 am she became the first Nepalese woman ever to
summit Lhotse. But on the descent, at around 8400m, she slipped and
fell over 900m to her death. As I descended I heard Dan above call
over my radio ‘There's been an accident! Not one of our team! A
Sherpa! Oh my God...was that Pemba Doma....?’
Thanks to Dan Mazur
from Summitclimb and Thai International Airways.
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Looking down the Lhotse Face and the Western Cwm from around
8100m on summit day. Pumori, 7167m in the centre of the photo
with Cho Oyu, 8201m looming behind. In October 2006, I was
standing on the summit of Cho Oyu looking in exactly the
opposite direction. Shortly after taking this photo I
reluctantly turned around. |
Dispatches
Dan Mazur who has reached the
summit of 7 of the world's highest mountains, including Everest and K2, and
has led and/or organized expeditions to more than 60 Himalayan, African, and
South American peaks will return to Everest again in 2007. Below is some
information on this Everest / Lhotse expeditions.
EVEREST - NEPAL The original
first-ascent route. Places are still available in our 2007 expedition. Full
Service price reduced to: $26,450. Expedition leader Dan Mazur. Leading
Everest climbs since 1991. 29 March to 6 June, 2007 and 2008.
Often spelled: "Chomolangma",
"Sagarmatha", "Qomolungma", "Chomolungma", "Qomolongma", "Chomolongma", "Qomolangma".
The most coveted peak in the
world from the easiest route, with the highest chance of success.

From left to right: Everest,
Nuptse, and Lhotse. A picture postcard view.
We provide generous discounts for
groups of two or more.
When you see the high level of
service we provide, as well as low budget options, you may agree that the cost
is affordable, inexpensive, even cheap.
29
March to 6 June, 68 days in Nepal in 2007, 2008 and 2009.

Daniel Mazur on the summit
of Everest, after climbing it from the Nepal side. Don't forget to take off
YOUR oxygen mask for the photo, when YOU reach the summit. Makalu and
Kangchenjunga in the Backround. (Photo:
Roman Giutashvili)
The route first climbed by Tenzing
and Hillary in 1953

Arnold Coster
from Rotterdam, our leader in advanced basecamp at 5600 metres (Roland Debare).
Daniel Mazur, in Everest basecamp
(J.C. Pratt) .Greg Mills, Murari Sharma, Dan Mazur, and Troy Chatwin at
Everest basecamp in April 2004 (Murari Sharma).
A meeting on the roof of our
hotel, where we describe the plan of our expedition. The audience, our
trekkers and climbers (Franck Pitula).

On the Hillary
Step (DL Mazur).

Jon Pratt crossing a ladder in the Khumbu ice fall at 5600
metres (Dan Mazur).

One of our nine excellent
cooks, brewing up another fine meal. (DL Mazur).
Ryan Waters on the summit, wearing
one of our oxygen sets. Team member and Sherpa oxygen supplies cached in the
storage tent in ABC. All of our oxygen is hand checked and the bottles, masks,
hoses, and regulators are carefully matched. We guarantee 100 percent of our
oxygen to work perfectly. Any oxygen bottles and equipment unused will be
repurchased for 70 percent of what you payed. On the far right of the photo,
you can see our hot water hand washing water reservoir and soap, where
everyone washes their hands before each meal, in order to maintain good
hygiene (Ryan Waters).

Descending the fixed lines
from the summit. Most accidents occur on descent. Its a time for the utmost
concentration and good hydration and nutrition. This is when you find out how
fit you really are (Ryan Waters).
Introduction: Climb Everest (8,848 Metres)
Everest is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world. The south
(Nepalese) side is the route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in
1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of the year.
Our proposed schedule allows for two potential summit attempts.
This expedition to Everest
maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a
strong record of reaching Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, and many other
8,000 metre summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese
officials who regulate the permit system. We must also give credit to
the highly experienced and hard-working climbing Sherpas, cooking and
office staff.
Detailed Description
The trip begins in the
ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu, and the staff will personally
meet your flight at Tribhuvan airport. You stay in a comfortable,
simple, clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and
Western-Style cuisine, at minimal expense. During our free day in
Kathmandu, we shall finalize arrangements, and take some time out for
trinket hunting, with planned visits to explore the 17th
century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings
Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan.
Early the following
morning we fly to Lukla at 2860 metres., where we meet our yak drivers,
and porters. If there is time, we will trek to Monjo (2652m), and spend
the night. For
our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of
the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos,
please visit our Everest trek site:
Everest Trek.

Trekking in the
Khumbu valley. Yaks carry our gear (Bob
Rowe). Crossing a bridge under rhododendron forests.
(DL Mazur) Our team in basecamp
(DL Mazur).
We will continue our trek
up to Namche Bazaar (3446m), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here we
rest for a day to acclimate, then proceed up to Deboche (3757m) for a
night, then to Lobuche (4930m), where we have another acclimatization
day. Finally, we make the last trek to basecamp at 5300 metres. After
resting, organising, and training in basecamp for a day, we will begin
our climb. We start with a day hike through the awe inspiring Khumbu
Icefall, followed by a trip to the plateau of the Western Cwm, for our
first glimpse of Camp 1, at 5800 metres. We return to basecamp for a
tasty dinner, prepared by our skilled cooks.

Anatoly Bukreev and Vladimir Balyberdin at basecamp.
(DL Mazur). On the South Col of
Everest (Gennady Kopieka)
Diane in the icefall (Dan Mazur). Tent lashed to
its platform in camp 3 at 7200 metres (Dan Mazur)Climber in the
Lhotse Face (Scott Darsney). Chris Shaw on the face at 8100 metres
during an early summit attempt (Dan Mazur)

Climbing
at 8400 metres above the Kangshung Face (DL Mazur).
Through the following
weeks, we will climb up and down the mountain, exploring the route,
establishing camps, and carefully and safely building our
acclimatization level.
From camp 1 at 6000 metres,
the route traverses the flattish bottom of the Western Cwm, to 6200
metres where camp 2 is located. Camp three is on the head wall of the
Lhotse face at about 7200 metres. The south Col, is the highest camp,
and at 8000 metres it is a windy and cold place.
We take our time, climbing up and
down to acclimate, which gives us the best chance to ascend in safety
and maximize our opportunity to reach the summit during the "weather
windows" which generally open in May.
The route to the summit
winds through snow ice and rock fields, at a 10 to 50 degree angle.
These slopes are not considered technical, but there is exposed rock
here in the spring, and lines are often fixed. Fixed rope is often
placed on the small vertical pitch of the 6 metre high Hillary step, and
the summit lies directly above. Truly the most classic route on the
world's most classic mountain.
Welcome to our team!
Looking up
at the summit from the south col. Climbing at 8400 metres above the
Kangshung Face. Approaching the Hillary Step. Climbing on the Hillary
Step (DL Mazur)
.
The view
from the summit, looking west to Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Pumori, and many
others (DL Mazur)
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SUGGESTED
DAY-BY-DAY ITINERARY FOR EVEREST CLIMB
1. |
Arrive Kathmandu (1,300
meters). Hotel. |
2. |
In Kathmandu; visit temples;
city tour; shopping. Hotel. |
3. |
Fly to Lukla (2860m). Walk to
Phakding (2652m). Teahouse or camping. |
4. |
Walk to Namche Bazaar
(3446m). Teahouse or camping. |
5. |
Rest and acclimatization in
Namche. Teahouse or camping. |
6. |
Walk to Pangboche (3757m).
Teahouse or camping. |
7. |
Walk to Pheriche (4250m).
Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping. |
8. |
Walk to Dugla (4620m).
Teahouse or camping. |
9. |
Walk to Lobuche (4930m).
Teahouse or camping. |
10. |
Walk to Gorak Shep (5140m).
Teahouse or camping. |
11. |
Walk to basecamp (5300m). |
12. |
Rest, organization, and
training day in basecamp. |
13. |
Rest, organization, and
training day in basecamp. |
14. |
Climb partway to camp 1 at
5800 metres. Return to basecamp. |
15. |
Rest in basecamp. |
16. |
Climb to camp 1 at 5800
metres. Return to basecamp. |
17. |
Rest in basecamp. |
18. |
Climb to Camp 1, sleep there. |
19. |
Walk to camp 2 at 6200 metres,
return to camp 1, sleep there. |
20. |
Return to basecamp. |
21. |
Rest in basecamp. |
22. |
Rest in basecamp. |
23. |
Walk to camp 1, sleep there. |
24. |
Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there. |
25. |
Rest in camp 2. |
26. |
Explore route to Camp 3
(7300m), return to camp 2, sleep there. |
27. |
Return to basecamp. |
28. |
Rest in basecamp. |
29. |
Rest in basecamp. |
30. |
Rest in basecamp. |
31. |
Walk to camp 1, sleep there. |
32. |
Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there. |
33. |
Rest in camp 2. |
34. |
Walk to Camp 3. Sleep there. |
35. |
Explore route to camp 4 at
8000 metres, return to camp 2. Sleep there. |
36. |
Return to basecamp. |
37. |
Rest in basecamp. |
38. |
Rest in basecamp. |
39. |
Rest in basecamp. |
40. |
Walk to camp 2, sleep there. |
41. |
Rest in camp 2. |
42. |
Walk to camp 3, sleep there. |
43. |
Walk to camp 4, sleep there. |
44. |
Attempt summit. |
45. |
Attempt summit. |
46. |
Return to camp 2, sleep there. |
47. |
Return to basecamp. |
48. |
Rest in basecamp. |
49. |
Rest in basecamp. |
50. |
Rest in basecamp. |
51. |
Rest in basecamp. |
52. |
Walk to camp 2, sleep there. |
53. |
Walk to camp 3, sleep there. |
54. |
Walk to camp 4, sleep there. |
55. |
Attempt summit. |
56. |
Attempt summit. |
57. |
Return to camp 2. |
58. |
Pack up camp 2. |
59. |
Return to basecamp. |
60. |
Pack up basecamp. |
61. |
Pack up basecamp. |
62. |
Trek down to Pheriche. Camp. |
63. |
Trek down to Pangboche.
Teahouse or camping. |
64. |
Trek to Namche, Teahouse or
camping. |
65. |
Trek to Lukla. Teahouse or
camping. |
66. |
Flight to Kathmandu. Hotel. |
67. |
Extra day in Kathmandu, in
case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping. Hotel. |
68. |
Fly Home. Thanks for joining
our expedition! |
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Millet One
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
collar.
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here. |
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A cold
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here. |
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